Author Topic: opinions wanted on subwoofers  (Read 33435 times)

Offline DRN

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Re: opinions wanted on subwoofers
« Reply #120 on: March 13, 2024, 06:26:53 PM »
Yes that didn't last long. I have different replacements coming Friday.
 :p
Rogue CM Dark 2SB2000Pro
Fritz Carrera Be SA Stands
CA Emotion SE CMB Carbon Satisfy Arm Phoenix Falcon PS
AT33PTG II Shelter 501 lll
Darlington DP8B Su7

Wywires Silver Series Platinum AES
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Offline Nick B

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Re: opinions wanted on subwoofers
« Reply #121 on: March 13, 2024, 07:12:04 PM »
Wow, talk about a speedy recovery! 🍷🍸🎉 I hope you get sub…stantial improvement with the new equipment
Orchard Starkrimson Ultra amp
Hattor Big preamp
JMR Voce Grande speakers
Holo Cyan2 dac
Holo Red streamer
Hapa Aero digital coax
WyWires Silver cables
TWL Digital American II p cord
Audio Envy p cords
Roon, Tidal, Qobuz
PI Audio UberBUSS

Offline Folsom

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Re: opinions wanted on subwoofers
« Reply #122 on: March 13, 2024, 07:16:04 PM »
Nuking it always sounds fun but ends up being pretty costly.

Offline _Scotty_

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Re: opinions wanted on subwoofers
« Reply #123 on: March 14, 2024, 12:05:33 AM »
DRN, I have some questions regarding your situation. Have you requested a postmortem from the manufacturer of the two subwoofers which quit working. Do you know if there is a timing circuit
present in the preamp which allows the preamplifier circuitry to stabilize before connecting to the
outside world through the preamp out jacks on the back of the amp.
 
The reason for these questions are that most tube preamp circuitry is single ended and only swings positive
above ground. They are usually cap coupled at their output to block DC from reaching downstream
amplifier stages. There are frequently bleeder resistors to ground from the caps so that they don't sit
with high voltage on them when the amplifier is turned off and not in use.
 
When the preamplifier stage is first energized the DC blocking caps see a substantial voltage surge
which persists until the cap is fully charged. At this time it can pass a potentially damaging voltage spike
to downstream circuitry. With a timing circuit that keeps the output of the preamp isolated until the caps
have charged and the circuit stabilized this occurrence can be eliminated.
I would hope that most subwoofers are protected from DC and a voltage spike emanating from the source components.
 
Here is where some rampant speculation comes in relating to my hypothesis about what you have experienced. If the integrated amp is passing a voltage spike to downstream components from its preamp
outputs upon turn on, repeated applications of this to the subwoofers inputs may overwhelmed its input stage and any protective measures it may have had. Both subs initially worked and then subsequently died.
 
I am not a fan of subs or any other equipment that relies on sensing a signal present and then turning it self on. There is no delay in their activation. If an upstream signal source sends them a high amplitude voltage spike instead of a legitimate signal they may go right ahead and amplify it unless some safety measures are in place. The safety factor in this regard is an unknown unless a subwoofer manufacturer makes a specific
claim regarding it. This goes to the well known practice among
audiophiles of always turning a preamp on first and then the power amp and upon shut down always
turning the power amp off first, and in the case of big ones, waiting until the power supply voltage
has dropped and then turning off the preamp.
 
These subs are always on and waiting
for a signal and are a parasitic drain on your wallet when it come time to pay the power bill.
Also in the case out of sudden power outage, depending on how your system powers down you can get thumps and other mayhem.
 
Steve can probably chime in and correct any of my misconceptions regarding my basic assumptions and the speculation which led to my hypothesis.
 Hope your new subs are compatible with your system. Have you had time to judge results of the upgrade to
the CM2? Enquiring minds want to know.
Scotty

Offline Nick B

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Re: opinions wanted on subwoofers
« Reply #124 on: March 14, 2024, 11:27:35 AM »
Well, it’s official. After a few months of not being hooked up, I put my  Rythmik L12s back in this morning with my Hattor preamp and the left sub is dead. Changed power cords and outlets on the UberBUSS to confirm it. I’ll get in touch with Rythmik today….

Orchard Starkrimson Ultra amp
Hattor Big preamp
JMR Voce Grande speakers
Holo Cyan2 dac
Holo Red streamer
Hapa Aero digital coax
WyWires Silver cables
TWL Digital American II p cord
Audio Envy p cords
Roon, Tidal, Qobuz
PI Audio UberBUSS

Offline _Scotty_

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Re: opinions wanted on subwoofers
« Reply #125 on: March 14, 2024, 12:35:08 PM »
Well that's fun. There is a green power indicator light that's always on if it is receiving power.
Other than checking for its presence and verifying that a signal is reaching the unit, that's about all you can do.
I assume you also swapped left and right channels and still had no luck with the misbehaving sub.
If no signal is detected it will do nothing.
Scotty.
« Last Edit: March 14, 2024, 12:37:49 PM by _Scotty_ »

Offline Nick B

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Re: opinions wanted on subwoofers
« Reply #126 on: March 14, 2024, 12:42:23 PM »
Well that's fun. There is a green power indicator light that's always on if it is receiving power.
Other than checking for its presence and verifying that a signal is reaching the unit, that's about all you can do.
I assume you also swapped left and right channels and still had no luck with the misbehaving sub.
If no signal is detected it will do nothing.
Scotty.

I haven’t run a signal through it, but the right channel sub has the red light indicator on when powered up and when the toggle switch is in the off position and that’s what I remember when they were both working and in the off position.
Orchard Starkrimson Ultra amp
Hattor Big preamp
JMR Voce Grande speakers
Holo Cyan2 dac
Holo Red streamer
Hapa Aero digital coax
WyWires Silver cables
TWL Digital American II p cord
Audio Envy p cords
Roon, Tidal, Qobuz
PI Audio UberBUSS

Offline P.I.

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Re: opinions wanted on subwoofers
« Reply #127 on: March 14, 2024, 03:55:41 PM »
Well, it’s official. After a few months of not being hooked up, I put my  Rythmik L12s back in this morning with my Hattor preamp and the left sub is dead. Changed power cords and outlets on the UberBUSS to confirm it. I’ll get in touch with Rythmik today….
Not to insult you, but are both sub switches in the auto on position?  I ask because I've done this before!  :rofl:
"A man with an experience is never at the mercy of a man with an argument." - Hilmar von Campe

Offline Nick B

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Re: opinions wanted on subwoofers
« Reply #128 on: March 14, 2024, 04:16:47 PM »
Well, it’s official. After a few months of not being hooked up, I put my  Rythmik L12s back in this morning with my Hattor preamp and the left sub is dead. Changed power cords and outlets on the UberBUSS to confirm it. I’ll get in touch with Rythmik today….
Not to insult you, but are both sub switches in the auto on position?  I ask because I've done this before!  :rofl:

Oh, heck, I’ve done some dumb things before…. But this is a dead amp. Hooked up both subs again. No LFE, rather line outs from the Hattor preamp. Both toggles in off position and then auto and on. Played cuts from my “break in for subs” playlist and zilch out of left channel. No red or green LEDs, no sound, no cabinet vibration.

Brian from  Rythmik has already contacted me. I told him I could take the amp out and ship it to him to save him some shipping costs. Am waiting to hear back. I’m assuming these are cheapie amps and he’ll just send me a new one rather than repair it.
Orchard Starkrimson Ultra amp
Hattor Big preamp
JMR Voce Grande speakers
Holo Cyan2 dac
Holo Red streamer
Hapa Aero digital coax
WyWires Silver cables
TWL Digital American II p cord
Audio Envy p cords
Roon, Tidal, Qobuz
PI Audio UberBUSS

Offline DRN

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Re: opinions wanted on subwoofers
« Reply #129 on: March 14, 2024, 06:09:12 PM »
2 new /different up and running puuuurfect.

Nick, Oh fun, NOT!
Brian must be really scratching his head.

 Try his hum test. With the sub on green. Take the cable out of the Pre. Hold on to the positive male pin on the end and don't hold the grounded jacket on the plug to the cable. It should hum through the sub. Turn crossover and volume all the way up .

AND don't mention my name.




Rogue CM Dark 2SB2000Pro
Fritz Carrera Be SA Stands
CA Emotion SE CMB Carbon Satisfy Arm Phoenix Falcon PS
AT33PTG II Shelter 501 lll
Darlington DP8B Su7

Wywires Silver Series Platinum AES
Yggdrasil+LIM CECTL5 Trans
BS Node 2i Qobuz
Room all treated

Offline Nick B

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Re: opinions wanted on subwoofers
« Reply #130 on: March 14, 2024, 06:17:09 PM »
2 new /different up and running puuuurfect.

Nick, Oh fun, NOT!
Brian must be really scratching his head.

 Try his hum test. With the sub on green. Take the cable out of the Pre. Hold on to the positive male pin on the end and don't hold the grounded jacket on the plug to the cable. It should hum through the sub. Turn crossover and volume all the way up .

AND don't mention my name.

Mums the word, Den 🤫 But there is no green light or red light either. There is no power that I can detect. Maybe it’s gone into “Brigadoon mode”….every 100 days 🤷‍♀️
If Brian gets it resolved, I’ll be a happy camper and then evaluate if they’re really worth having.

So glad your SVS are working perfectly!
Orchard Starkrimson Ultra amp
Hattor Big preamp
JMR Voce Grande speakers
Holo Cyan2 dac
Holo Red streamer
Hapa Aero digital coax
WyWires Silver cables
TWL Digital American II p cord
Audio Envy p cords
Roon, Tidal, Qobuz
PI Audio UberBUSS

Offline P.I.

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Re: opinions wanted on subwoofers
« Reply #131 on: March 14, 2024, 06:42:37 PM »
OK.  Let's think this thing through.

Your Supratek had the left channel die.

Your left sub is dead.

Why?
"A man with an experience is never at the mercy of a man with an argument." - Hilmar von Campe

Offline Jack

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Re: opinions wanted on subwoofers
« Reply #132 on: March 14, 2024, 06:46:13 PM »
Did you check the fuse on the sub amp?
JVC QL-Y7 w/ Denon DL-301 Mk II
Vista Phono II Mk II
Jays Audio CDT3 Mk III
Supratek Cabernet
Kinki Studio EX-B7's
Holo Audio May KTE
Auralic Aries G2.2
Verity Otello/Nola KO
(4) Rythmik F12SE
(2) Puritan PSM-156
Tubulus USB & AES
Wireworld IC's and SC's

Offline Jack

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Re: opinions wanted on subwoofers
« Reply #133 on: March 14, 2024, 06:48:50 PM »
Dave

Chances the left channel going out on the Supratek was related to one of the 1950's RCA's I sent him but could be something else. The other tube is apparently still good.
JVC QL-Y7 w/ Denon DL-301 Mk II
Vista Phono II Mk II
Jays Audio CDT3 Mk III
Supratek Cabernet
Kinki Studio EX-B7's
Holo Audio May KTE
Auralic Aries G2.2
Verity Otello/Nola KO
(4) Rythmik F12SE
(2) Puritan PSM-156
Tubulus USB & AES
Wireworld IC's and SC's

Offline Nick B

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Re: opinions wanted on subwoofers
« Reply #134 on: March 14, 2024, 06:51:41 PM »
OK.  Let's think this thing through.

Your Supratek had the left channel die.

Your left sub is dead.

Why?

The last time I checked, both channels were now dead on the Supratek. Jack wants me to hook it up one more time before I send it off to North Carolina under warranty and I was going to do that tonight.

To the best of my recollection, all of this started with the addition of the subs. By that, I mean the very loud and concerning thump in the left channel coming out of the sub when turning the Supratek on and off. I think starting off, I had the Rythmik toggle in the on position, then I switched it to standby mode for operation.

Now I will admit that my usual mo was to leave the  Starkrimson amp on 24/7 and just turn the tubed Supratek preamp on/off every night for listening. Whether it was an interaction between these three pieces of equipment, I have no idea.

Orchard Starkrimson Ultra amp
Hattor Big preamp
JMR Voce Grande speakers
Holo Cyan2 dac
Holo Red streamer
Hapa Aero digital coax
WyWires Silver cables
TWL Digital American II p cord
Audio Envy p cords
Roon, Tidal, Qobuz
PI Audio UberBUSS