Hiya - I'm new to forum posting, period, let alone new to Audio Nervosa. I'm getting my feet wet posting, a bit, in a few relevant topic areas. I promise to do my best not to piss anyone off and I'd ask ya'll to give me a "heads-up" if I cross a line out of ignorance. Anyway, I'm home recovering from a couple of major surgeries and decided to totally retool my home audio as a means of killing the boredom and hopefully hitting on better sounding systems as well. Currently, the "big ticket" item in my project is trying to breathe some life into a 22-year old pair of Klipsch Chorus 2 speakers. I bought them off of Craig's List for a very reasonable $400, for the very clean mechanical shape they were in. There were some minor cosmetic issues that were entirely meaningless to me as I knew I would want to pimp them out with new veneer. The last of my refinishing supplies are due in this coming week so I'm ready to pull the trigger on this possibly VERY foolish venture. I'll probably post some progress reports w/ pics. Thanks for letting me hang out - String
Welcome , and I love pics
(http://www.audionervosa.com/MGalleryItem.php?id=753)
Specifications
FREQUENCY RESPONSE 39Hz-20kHz(+-)3dB
POWER HANDLING 100 watts maximum continuous (1000 watts peak)
SENSITIVITY 101dB @ 1watt/1meter
MAX ACOUSTIC OUTPUT 121dB SPL
NOMINAL IMPEDANCE 8 ohms
CROSSOVER FREQUENCY HF 5,000 Hz
LF 600 Hz
MAXIMUM ACOUSTIC OUTPUT 121dB SPL
TWEETER K-79-K 1" (2.54cm) Polymer diaphragm compression driver
HIGH FREQUENCY HORN 90(o)x40(o) Exponential Horn
MIDRANGE K-61-K 1.5" (3.81cm) Phenolic diaphragm compression driver
MID FREQUENCY HORN 90(o)x40(o) Tractrix(r) Horn
WOOFER K-48-E 15" (38.1cm) Fiber-composite cone active / KD-16 15" (38.1cm) Fiber-composite cone passive
ENCLOSURE MATERIAL Medium density fiberboard construction (MDF)
ENCLOSURE TYPE Bass reflex via passive radiator
DIMENSIONS 39" (99.06cm) x 18.5" (46.99cm) x 15.5" (39.37cm)
WEIGHT 89 lbs. (40.4kg)
FINISHES Walnut Oil, Oak Oil, Oak Clear, Finished Black
BUILT FROM 1990
BUILT UNTIL 1996
I like that 101dB sensitivity, 8ohm impedance. Great for tube amps.
22 years ago the quality of film capacitors was not as good as it is now. You could probably upgrade the caps in the crossover with something better sounding for low money. If there are any electrolytic caps in the filters you'd want to replace those just for age, with film caps. Horn loaded tweeter and mid will be sensitive to the quality of the tweeter filter caps.
String,
You might want to check over here upgrading that crossover network.
http://www.alkeng.com/klipsch.html
Welcome to AN.
Bill
Nice link Bill! Thanks
Rich, hello again. I just responded to your post in the EE DAC thread. And hello Bill, we just spoke the other day when I placed the order for my soon to arrive Minimax. Thanks for the link Bill but I've already got some brand spanking new crossovers that just arrived from Bob Crites - http://www.critesspeakers.com/. Bob & Michael did a bang-up job on the replacement Xovers, they even SMELL good! I had wandered by Al's site to see what was being offered but felt his product line was more "Heritage" line specific. My Chorus 2's, while designed by Paul Klipsch as a replacement for the Cornwall, are along with the Forte and Quartet relatively obscure compared to the higher visibility Heritage models. Bob had a very Chorus 2 specific replacement crossover available and his work is very highly regarded on the Klipsch community forum. I also wanted to order titanium tweeter diaphragms from him but he had JUST run out and wasn't quite sure when his supplier would rectify the situation. Patience required. Well, my break from sanding the Chorus cabinets is over - back to the grind. I'm prepping the cabs for some really spiffy veneer I dug up. Will post some images as I go - String
OK, so now we know you are already serious audio neurotic. No more Mr nice guy.
Those Crites crossovers look sweet!!
Yeah Rich, I'm a sick man. But then every boy and girl needs a hobby, am I right? The Crites website does not do justice to the sheer grandeur of these replacement crossovers. The originals are bolted to the back of the plastic binding post terminal, for Pete's sake. Nice, nice speakers but PLENTY of room for upgrades. I'd like to post pics but the "attachment" option just doesn't get it as it won't allow me to import images within the text field. Anyone wanna school me on how best to import graphics? I'm itchin' to start a modest image journal of the project as it sputters along. Today I got the cabs stripped of drivers, crossovers, misc. hardware, and some very funky damping material. Dragged the cabs outside and got them all sanded down and ready for veneer application. Unfortunately the ash burl veneer for the motor boards showed up pretty "wrinkled" and I just got done wetting the sheets down with some veneer softening solution and sandwiching them between a couple of pieces of melamine (sp?), then stacked 150 pounds of sand and both speaker cabs on top. It's the suggested method for "flattening" wavy veneer. It'll take a few days before the veneer dries enough for install so I've got a hitch in the git-a-long for now. - String
Quote from: stringdriventhing on March 12, 2011, 04:47:03 PM
Yeah Rich, I'm a sick man.
Well, you'll have a lot of company here. :rofl:
And I second Evan's comment - we
love pics around here.
Welcome! I'm looking forward to following your progress!
Welcome as well! Those Crite crossovers are excellent; I have them on my K-horns!
Pete
Hello & thanks for the warm greetings, much appreciated. This weekend has been a sort of two steps forward, one step back kinda deal with the Klipsch project. Got the cabs completely stripped, sanded, glued hardwood plugs into the voids left by the magnet inserts (for attaching grills I won't be using) I punched through, and filled any voids with a vinyl-based patching compound I've had success with. I judiciously added some internal bracing and drilled larger holes in the Klipsch input terminal, so as to accommodate the Vampire Wire replacement binding posts. I've got doubts whether I'll be able to proceed with the veneering tomorrow though, as the ash burl veneer I'm using for the motor board developed even worse wrinkles than I started with following a "flattening" process that was recommended. I got on the horn to a buddy who's got a ton of experience with custom cabinetry and he suggested taking a clothes iron to it. It didn't completely cure the situation but after an hour of ironing the veneer through a soft cotton cloth the majority of the waves are smoothed out. I'll know better in the morning if the "band-aid" will stick. If not, $125 down the drain and I'll have to buy the more costly paper-backed veneer. There have been moments today where I've felt like this old dog has bitten off more than he can reasonably chew, we'll see. - String
Wanted to include a shot of Bob & Michael Crites' craftsmanship. When I started looking into the possibility of picking up a pair of Klipsch speakers to work on, the number of positive forum postings regarding Bob's replacement crossovers was both impressive and persuasive. There was pretty much universal accord as to the positive influence his gear has on Klipsch performance. Besides, these speakers are 22-years old and probably in need of having at least some of the crossover components refreshed. The Crites replacements include all new internal wiring to the drivers and input terminals - nice. - String
Have you considering dampening the horns? In my experience the solid wood horns sound best, probably because they are so solid. I'm sure the Klipsh crowd had ideas about this, but just a layer of caulk would all around the back side would help.
Hey JLM - I've got a sheet of Black Hole damping material ordered. Cut to size, peel & stick. Most of the opinion on the Klipsch forum suggested that damping the plastic horns on the Chorus, Forte,etc. was pretty much a waste of time. Well it's my time to waste, besides I just KNOW I'd be worrying about it if I didn't. I've also got plans to use the Black Hole on the cast frames of the woofers and passive radiators as well. I've received an order of No Rez from GR Research which I'll use to replace the fairly cheesy open-cell foam that I stripped out of the cabs. It was probably considered hot stuff when the speakers were assembled back in '89 but the No Rez is really well thought out and should represent a substantial improvement. - String
HURTLE CLEARED - WHEW! Okay, we're rollin' now. After my lack of experience, and maybe common sense, backed me into a tough spot with the raw, ash burl veneer I chose for the Chorus 2 motor boards (fronts / baffles), I girded my loins and dove head first into the veneering today. I'm reminded of a golfing phrase, "If you can't be GOOD, you'd better be LUCKY". I'll compromise, it was a little of both today.
The first pic I took is of the cabs after I had installed the No Rez damping sheets, masked-off the driver apertures so as to prevent glue and debris from falling into the cab interiors, and had wiped the surfaces to be veneered with an alcohol-dampened cotton cloth, waiting for the alcohol to flash-off before applying glue.
Second pic was of the veneer being freed from the melamine "sandwich" that was utilized to help flatten the stubbornly wavy burl veneer.
Third pic is a Photoshop treatment where I adjusted the contrast and levels to approximate what the veneer might look like with a natural amber shellac finish. May not "jump" enough for my purposes.
Fourth pic is a HOOT! This is not how the pros do it. Vacuum presses are employed to exert plentiful and even pressure to the glued and installed veneer. In my Master Veneering Den, we do things a little differently. We stack a bunch of junk on top, including my newly acquired, used Rogue amp that has yet to be de-boxed, but weighs a useful 60 BIG El Bees.
Fifth pic is the end result - veneer adhering nice 'n tight and driver apertures VERY carefully roughed-in.
Gotta say that I'm "good tired" tonight, and greatly relieved that I pulled-off a "stunner". And they said it couldn't be done, HAH! - String
Quote from: stringdriventhing on March 17, 2011, 08:26:12 PM
And they said it couldn't be done.....
I don't think anyone said it couldn't be done except you. :lol:
Sometimes you just have to believe in yourself. 8)
Nice job! :thumb:
tmazz, thanks for your kind words of encouragement, much appreciated & probably needed! This speaker project was intended as a means of keeping myself a little "distracted" while a virtual prisoner in my home as I attempt to recover from two major surgeries and await scheduling of a third. I failed, miserably, to wrap my head around the "magnitude" of the undertaking. Of course, adding every possible bell & whistle to such a rudimentary speaker design has upped the ante, just a tad. - String
As my wife often reminds me - this isn't a hobby, it's a sickness. :rofl:
Well, hello. It's been several days since the last update, so here's the scoop on what's been up. Progress is being made, but since I'm in the middle of the finish schedule, and particularly since I don't have spray capability, the progress is incremental and patience-trying. The color "stage" was particularly frustrating as the vendor I chose for my water-borne finishes took a full six days to respond to an important technical inquiry. Oh well, so it goes.
At this juncture the speakers are veneered, sealed, dyed, and have received two of the four or five varnish coats I'll be applying. The cab interiors are upgraded in regards to damping material and I've begun assembly of the newly fabricated bases. If you reference the old "stock" Chorus 2 photo, that Rich supplied at the start of the thread, you'll see a 3/4" "recess" in the speaker side-profile. That's the top portion of the original bases, where they bolted on", supplied with the speakers - really inadequate stuff for the quality of the balance of the design. My thanks to my compadre, Gary Werkmeister, for assistance and use of his table saw in generating the components for the upgraded bases. Once the cabs have reached final application of the varnish coats I'll flip them on their "heads" and secure the new bases, after which I'll fill the base interiors with mass loading material. Anyone know where I can access an affordable source of tungsten? Tungsten is heavier than lead, likely less toxic, and would provide the most mass for the relatively small interior space of the bases. If not, I've got 150 pounds of sand I used for weighting the veneer that needs to get put to use.
Lots more to do yet, as the finish schedule grinds to a conclusion, the "smaller details" begin to stack higher. BUT, I'd guess-timate that by next weekend I'll have the speakers completed and ready to FIRE UP. Yippee! - String
They're looking good. It's going to be nice sitting in front of them, listening to good music, and saying to yourself "I did that". Always a good feeling, pride of ownership and workmanship.
Enjoy
That looks very nice!! I'm glad you are here to help me learn to veneer!
Dry packed sand is 25% the weight of lead shot. Lead is $2/pound online (plus shipping). Try a local gun shop to save on shipping. Tungsten scrap is going for $45/pound.
Well not really scrap, but leftover round discs on clearance, cheapest I could find by online retail.
Spot price on raw scrap is $17/pound. It is a rare earth metal that China is trying to corner.
Okay, tungsten's a non-starter! If I go lead shot I'll seek out recycled and encapsulate it in an acrylic resin matrix. Somehow though, it's ALL sounding like a bit too much effort here in the late innings with this project. I may just content myself with an improved base with MUCH improved footers. The original bases came with those cheap-rump, circular, "tap-on", metal whatevers. I'll be using decent "budget" carpet spikes from Parts Express until I can swing outriggers from SoundOCity. They're excellent for leveling speakers in my converted-garage listening room, with its pronounced back to front slope! - String
Coming along nicely! :thumb:
Hallelujah I say, HALLELUJAH! The Chorus 2's are "roughly" in position, and most critically there is MUSIC ISSUING FORTH!! Lots & lots left to do fine-tuning ALL the various new bits and pieces of the new musical puzzle of mine BUT, there's music issuing forth and that is a very, good thing.
The Klipsch's still have their SoundOCity outrigger/cone footers, Bob Crites replacement titanium tweeter diaphragms, and Grover Huffman cabling to be installed when they arrive. The final coat of varnish has been curing for over five days and I can soon tackle buffing and polishing of the finish, if I so choose. It'd be VERY WEAK to wuss on the final phase of the finish schedule but man, am I tired of dinkin' with these puppies - besides they don't look half-bad as is.
As I posted in a separate thread, these are the speakers to satisfy the hormonal teenager who refuses to vacate my head & heart. Speakers for crankin' obnoxiously LOUD, so as to soothe the rambunctious youngster within. BUT, so as to ease into things, ECM jazz has been the order of this day, and it sounds really darn fine. The interior adolescent interloper may need to learn to share! - String
Looking good. :thumb:
Thanks Tom, much appreciated. Hope all is well with you, and yours. - String
Beautiful!
Those really turned out beautiful :thumb: Nice work!
They came out really nice.
How do you cut the driver holes in the veneer after it is glued down? What cutting tool?
Thanks
Rich
Really good job. Looking good Amigo. Enjoy !!!
charles
Looks great. Good job. How's the sound?
Great job. That combination of finishes really pops :thumb:
Bryan
Wow, thanks for the generous words all! Gotta say that there were times during the process that I wanted to torch the damn things, then realized that they weren't the problem, though my lack of woodworking skill and proper shop space certainly were. Now that I've had a run of days to just relax and let my eye grow accustomed, I'm starting to kinda dig the look of 'em.
You nailed it Rich, the cut-outs for the drivers were the real nail-biter! My "special tool" was a Stanley sheetrock knife + constant changes of premium quality blades. I got the best results with blades from an outfit by the name of Irwin - sharpest, longest lasting edge. I was in a panic because the white ash burl veneer was just ridiculously brittle and the "conditioner" I had applied, to make it more pliable for installation, had dried out by the time I started the cut-outs. All that I had to do was to keep a fresh blade handy, GO SLOW, and remember to breathe. The other BIG cutting issue was the Makore veneer I applied to the top & sides. Because I really like the look of the Gamut speakers with the zebrawood grain running from side-to-side, rather than up 'n down, I chose the same approach with the Makore. Unfortunately, that caused the lion's share of my trimming to be "cross-grain". Yow! Only two small chip-outs though. Not bad for a rookie.
Bryan, thanks to you for the "pop" comment, means a lot to me. I had intended to apply a straight clear-coat to the ash but after working up a sample board I knew that more pop was exactly what I wanted. After applying a base "wash coat" of shellac, I applied three different color coats to the ash. Starting with the deepest color, Vintage Maple, I sanded that coat almost completely off, leaving only the burl details "colored". I then applied a second lighter color, Amber Maple, and once dried sanded a large portion of it off as well, leaving only a "suggestion" of a deeper amber hue. I than applied two coats of an amber shellac to finish the color schedule and seal the Transtint dyes I used prior to applying four coats of a really nice working water-borne varnish.
The Makore proved to be where I feel I missed the mark. I discovered a finish schedule for mahogany, an open-grained wood like the Makore, that claimed grain-filling would be unnecessary. No such luck. My finish, after buffing & polishing, is NOT looking glassy smooth & mirror-like. Oh hell, it's a darkish room and no one gives a rat's butt but me. C'est la vie.
I just received an email from Bob Crites, maker of my replacement crossovers, and the titanium tweeter replacements will arrive in a week or two. After installing them, I'll mount the new "outriggers" to the bases and that will be the finish line. By then I hope to have my Rogue amp back from repairs and then I can fire these puppies up. Bob, the pre-mod Choruses sounded just fine driven by the Modwright KWA-100SE I had on hand then. It's my fervent hope that the mechanical upgrades + tubes will amount to a good listen. - String
Quote from: stringdriventhing on April 13, 2011, 02:42:51 PM
Not bad for a rookie.
Nah, Looks like a pro job! Thanks for the advice. I gotta check your source mentioned above for veneer, as Rockler is too $$. Rockler does have a "veneer saw" that looks very useful, but only for straight lines. I guess preveneering before routing the circles would be ideal, but you can't do that on a refinish job like yours.
Wow String, you did all of that for your cat? :rofl:
Seriously, your speakers look beautiful and I'd wager they sound great. Congrats!
--Jerome
Quote from: stringdriventhing on March 12, 2011, 09:47:37 AMHiya - I'm new to forum posting, period, let alone new to Audio Nervosa. I'm getting my feet wet posting, a bit, in a few relevant topic areas. I promise to do my best not to piss anyone off and I'd ask ya'll to give me a "heads-up" if I cross a line out of ignorance. Anyway, I'm home recovering from a couple of major surgeries and decided to totally retool my home audio as a means of killing the boredom and hopefully hitting on better sounding systems as well. Currently, the "big ticket" item in my project is trying to breathe some life into a 22-year old pair of Klipsch Chorus 2 speakers. I bought them off of Craig's List for a very reasonable $400, for the very clean mechanical shape they were in. There were some minor cosmetic issues that were entirely meaningless to me as I knew I would want to pimp them out with new veneer. The last of my refinishing supplies are due in this coming week so I'm ready to pull the trigger on this possibly VERY foolish venture. I'll probably post some progress reports w/ pics. Thanks for letting me hang out - String
A complete shot in the dark, but how could I see the pics that were on this post or reach out to the OP?
Hello and welcome SigShot,
This thread goes back to 2011 and this forum and other forums that I know of don't keep pictures for that length of time. The storage cost would be quite expensive.
I also did a search on that individual and he is not in our database.
Nick - Admin