My audiosource stereo amp has started petering out, so I am forced to face the music and start the amp building part of my active speaker project. The speakers are 3 ways, all drivers are 8 ohms. Sensitivity is tweeter 93dB, mids 87dB, woofers 91dB. 100db max listening peaks. I think 30-50wpc should be enough. I keep thinking that the bass driver might like more for playing organs or dance party but the why isn't 50W enough when 10 watts gets me 100dB bass. I prefer the sound of very low source impedance, at least for these speakers.
I want all the channels to sound the same, so I can move the woof/mid crossover a little higher without affecting tone color. Right now it is at 150Hz.
It doesn't have to be DIY, but I am willing and able, so that's an option. I love the idea of tubes, but they do make me crazier than usual, so I'd prefer not to be tubes for this.
Budget is unlimited say, $1500?
So what do you guys recommend for 6 channels of amps?
I like to turn them on and leave them on all day. Talk radio, classical radio, pandora, jazz24.org, whatever. I get anxious about wasting tube life playing talk radio. I get anxious about turning on the tubes or hot class A amps and letting them warm up, then remembering 5 hours later just before bedtime. I am in and out of the house a lot, sometimes I will have 30 minutes to listen before I run out again, would be nice to just hit play. I want my kids and wife to be able to make the music GO with app on their phones and without my involvement. So I want amps than can run all day without triggering these neuroses.
I also want it to sound delicious, that goes without saying.
DIY options:
F5 / F5 Turbo (http://www.diyaudio.com/store/amplifier-circuit-boards/power-amplifiers/first-watt-clones.html) - Beautiful class A phat sound, but runs HOT and long warm up time. I think the warm up will activate extreme neurosis, and prevent instant turn on/sitdown/listen10 minutes before bed. Similar anxiety as using tubes. Maybe not? Do they sound good cold? Fast warm up? I know they sound gorgeous, I love SS class A.
Modulus-86 (http://www.neurochrome.com/audio/?page_id=1092) - LM3886 based composite chip amplifier, pcb it. 35W, can be paralleled and/or bridged. Extremely low distortion. Worry about chip amp sound, I usually hate the opamp used in this design.
Sympatico (http://www.twistedpearaudio.com/amplifiers/sympatico.aspx) - LM4780 based composite chip amplifier. More power than Modulus-86, similar concept. Same opamp and similar power chip as above. Low distortion, chip amps offer very high value.
Elliot Sound P101, P3A, P3B amps. Already have PCBs and output devices for P101.
Sol's I-60. I'm using this on midrange drivers now, it sounds great, but it's a bit beyond my ability to pull together on my own.
Any other DIY options?
Thanks
Maybe a 6 Channel amp from Class D Audio? You might have to wheel and deal to get 6 Channel amp in your budget though.
4 channel amp info:
http://classdaudio.com/audio-amplifiers/4-channel-sds-470-class-d-audio-amplifier.html
(http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/NiceguyEdy27/HT%20equipment/6-Channel-Inside.jpg)
(http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/NiceguyEdy27/HT%20equipment/6_Channel_Rear.jpg)
For some reason though I just can't get the image a stack of 3 Hafler 9505 powering your project speakers. No idea why this image is hitting me now. I know it isn't a DIY project but finding 3 of them and repairing/refurbing them isn't for the faint of heart.
Commercial amps:
Parasound Zamp v3 (http://www.parasound.com/ParasoundZ/zampv3.php) x3. Reputation for good SQ. $400 each
ATI 6012 (http://www.ati-amp.com/AT6012.php) - 12 channel, 60wpc. As recommended for Linkwitz Orion. $2400
Rotel 1506 (http://www.rotel.com/NA/products/ProductDetails.htm?Id=481) - 6 channels, 50 watts. $1400
Emotiva XPA-3 (https://emotiva.com/products/amplifiers/xpa-3) - Do they really have good SQ? Price <$1/watt.
Outlaw Audio 7075 (https://emotiva.com/products/amplifiers/xpa-3) - $700 7 ch. Sound quality?
NuForce MCA-18 (https://www.nuforce.com/index.php?option=com_k2&view=item&id=694:mca-18&Itemid=2814) - 8ch, class D, 110wpc.
Any others?
Thanks
Quote from: sleepyguy24 on December 22, 2014, 01:56:13 PM
For some reason though I just can't get the image a stack of 3 Hafler 9505 powering your project speakers. No idea why this image is hitting me now. I know it isn't a DIY project but finding 3 of them and repairing/refurbing them isn't for the faint of heart.
http://www.hafler.com/products/hafler_products_details.asp?productID=3276&viewId=3
Looks cool! Thanks!
Hi again,
My preference for Emotiva are their sources. JimBones' Emotiva ERC-3 is solid. I liked their USP-1 preamp too.
I have their UPA-7 amp running my HT speakers except for the fronts. I have a Sumo 9 for that when I want to listen to 2 channel concerts.
IME the Emotiva XPA Gen 1 line and some of the UPA Gen 1 line were a little thin & brittle sounding when it came to 2 channel set-ups.
The good thing is with Emotiva if you buy new they have a generous return policy and if you buy used you can easily sell their gear on their forum. Emotiva stuff moves quickly there.
Maybe you can find 2 of these amps.
McCormack DNA HT3 McCormack DNA HT3
http://app.audiogon.com/listings/multi-ch-mccormack-dna-ht3-mccormack-dna-ht3-3-channel-amp-2014-10-08-amplifiers-46202-indianapolis-in
Some great suggestions, thanks Dean.
Carl also suggested McCormack, but I thought they were more expensive.
This is a tough one Rich, as most of the HT amps on the market only have 5 channels since most subs are self powered. Finding one with six or more channels really cuts back your options, especially on a $1500 budget.
But I agree with Dean, Emotiva really does give you a good bang for the buck, I am just not sure if it would be up to your standards as far as SQ goes.
Here is one that I just found on A'gon:
http://app.audiogon.com/listings/multi-ch-emotiva-upa-7-125w-x-7-channels-with-free-shipping-2014-12-22-amplifiers-90706-bellflower-ca
Thanks Tom.
I do want to keep the refinement as I have now with Sol's I-60. Most budget SS amps are not as refined.
In the end I probably end up with something DIY. But still open to any other suggestions. Thanks
Why ? KISS baby. You will need an active crossover or at a minimum low and high pass filters built into amps. We do not want to stress the drivers with unwanted frequencies.
charles
I sent you a PM with a link to Marantz monoblocks... MA-500's and/or MA-700's would do nicely. I really liked those amps... they perform way above their price point.
Quote from: rollo on December 23, 2014, 06:50:47 AM
Why ? KISS baby. You will need an active crossover or at a minimum low and high pass filters built into amps. We do not want to stress the drivers with unwanted frequencies.
I've been running active system for about 2 months, based on my Kairos 2way speakers and added 11" woofer box. I'm using JRiver on a PC for crossover and preamp functions with Firepod 10 channel computer audio interface. I used the equipment I had on hand and free software to prove the concept. It works very well indeed. JRiver has 64 bit processing and the Firepod is nearly audiophile quality so they are mostly harmless to the signal. The distortion-free digital crossover filters and the direct connection of driver to amplifiers is huge improvement over the passive crossovers that I was using before. Now that the concept is proven, it's time to flesh it out with quality gear. I need amps, newer PC, and maybe mod the Firepod line outputs.
I worry that I might not ever be able to go back! But I do have an escape plan if necessary, 300Bs, horns, etc. But I would not call that simple, either. :rofl:
Quote from: Carlman on December 23, 2014, 08:07:28 AM
I sent you a PM with a link to Marantz monoblocks... MA-500's and/or MA-700's would do nicely. I really liked those amps... they perform way above their price point.
Thanks Carl. I got it. I am checking out the reviews.
I picked up an inexpensive T-amp from China off of e-bay. I haven't heard it yet, because it's one of my christmas gifts. Cost about $60. I plan on using it for my computer desktop. Doesn't need to be fancy, and it isn't.
You are probably looking for better quality though.
You never know. People love their T amps! :drool:
I'm listening to this palm sized T-amp this morning, after opening it last night. It's an SA-36A Pro model. Granted, I am at low volumes while everyone else is sleeping, but it does what it needs to do. Clean, balanced sounding, plenty of bass using the HIFiMeDIY.com USB Sabre DAC (think Dragonfly-like). Working well with my AR215PS speakers.
All in all, I think this was a much better choice than getting separately powered desktop speakers. Pretty too, with a nice gold brushed aluminum faceplate, but it also comes in black and silver.
(http://www.shenzhenaudio.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/s/a/sa-36a_pro__5.jpg)
That looks sweet Bob. How does it sound cranked up?
The DIY chip amps mentioned above were calling out to me. I don't know if it will be the final answer, but it seemed like the best path to try first, in terms of potential sound quality for the price. I like the idea of everything in my system being DIY, too. The reviews of various quality midfi amps mentioned above were not convincing enough for me to take a chance.
I ordered a pair each of Twisted Pear Sympatico and Neurochrome Modulus-86. I will compare them and buy a third pair of whichever wins. They have excellent performance specs for low price. They are both using the same concept: a line level opamp providing gain and driving a power opamp (lm3886) to drive the speakers, all wrapped together inside a single feedback loop. This is called a composite amplifier because it is two separate IC amplifier systems linked together to make a new amp better than either can do alone.
The Sympatico uses LM4780 power opamp for the "output stage" which is two LM3886 amps bridged together in one IC package. The Modulus-86 uses a LM3886 "output stage." So the Sympatico has twice the power of the Modulus, it is rated 100w while Modulus is rated 35w. 35w is enough for my mids and tweets, should also be enough for woofer, but Modulus can be paralleled and/or bridged as necessary for more power. All my drivers are 8ohms, with no passive crossover components eating power.
More to come...