Being a proud owner of a Linn Lingo, Ittock 2 arm with Cirkus and trampolin upgrades was wondering if I'm alone here. Any Linn owners with some input we can chat about?
rollo
PS; using micro Benz M2 and Loesch & Weisner phono stage/pre.
Hi, Rollo!
I've also got a Linn LP-12. I certainly can't say I'm terribly knowledgeable, yet, but I do have several mods/updates that I need to do...one of these days. I've got some parts that have been sitting around for a couple of years, now.
YES...I AM a champion procrastonator :roll:!!!
The Linn LP12 is a very Musical LP payer!
Quote from: rollo on October 26, 2007, 11:44:50 AM
Being a proud owner of a Linn Lingo, Ittock 2 arm with Cirkus and trampolin upgrades was wondering if I'm alone here. Any Linn owners with some input we can chat about?
rollo
PS; using micro Benz M2 and Loesch & Weisner phono stage/pre.
Hey Charles!
It's Bill. I could just call you, but that would be too simple! ;-)
Need advice... LP12 - Isolate or Couple??? That is the question! Cones/Spikes/Footers vs. Sand Boxes, Air Bladders, Sorbothane, Raquetballs or anything else "squishy"? Or... if you have a platform between the TT and the shelf on your audio rack, maybe a combination of the two???
Right now, I have a Sound Organization TT stand (spikes down to disks on the top of my Oak cabinet) with the MDF (?) insert board that the Sound Organization stands come with. That insert board rests upon the upwards facing pinpoints that run along the inside rails of the stand, for a second coupling point. I then have 4 metal cones (manufacturer?) under the frame of the LP12 to raise it off it's stock footers.
Can't decide on what's best or where to start!?
SN
Not an LP-12 experience , but........
A few months back I took the stock rubber feet of my VPI HW-19 and replaced them with cones. The change provided me with a noticeable positive improvement and the cones remain today. Will this work for an LP-12? Who knows? But I do know that the LP-12 have similar, but not identical types of suspension. Both sit on springs, but the LP-12 springs are a bit looser that the VPI. The different spring constants and resonance points may lead to different results, but the easiest way to find out is to try it. Luckily, this is a real easy one to swap in and out. If you have any kind of cones laying around a home just drop them in place and see what you think. If you like what it does you cam always look for "better" cones. If you don't have any spares I'm sure there is someone in the club with a few extras the can lend you.
Tom
Here are a few pix to show you what I have right now. (No extra charge for the dust and scratches!) It's been this way for a while now and I've been too lazy to remove everything and start listening all over again! I just thought there may be things I could do to improve the sound further.
(http://i451.photobucket.com/albums/qq231/PixPusher/LP12/PB150080a.jpg)
(http://i451.photobucket.com/albums/qq231/PixPusher/LP12/PB150081a.jpg)
I also have issues with a "springy" ceramic tile floor on a plywood subfloor over a crawlspace in regards to making my tonearm jump around if someone walks by. I'd never would've thought that having that much "mud" (whatever they call the concrete base they set tile in) would allow that much "bounce" in the floor, but it does. Maybe there's a way of getting away from being so sensitive to the floor issues and get better sound all at the same time!?
Oh, one more thing... I have to keep the "WAF" (Wife Acceptance Factor) in mind with whatever I do here!
Thanks!
SN
One of the best things you could do would be to take the spring out of the floor by running a beam under the floor joyces to take the spring out. This will also tighten up the bass
Second get a sand box. to many cones doing to many things I build my sand boxes with a 3/4 mpf base dadoed into the sides 5/8 up from the bottom then another piece of 3/4 mdf Green glued to the first to decouple vibrations
ED
Thanks, Ed!
Unfortunately, that floor is over a crawlspace. :( The opening to get into the crawlspace is "a few sizes too small" compared to my not so svelte, "a few sizes too big" body! It would be like trying to cram the proverbial "square peg in a round hole". :lol:
I like the sandbox idea. Where would it work the best... directly on top of the oak cabinet, under the Sound Organization stand... or between the Sound Organization stand and the LP12 itself? With cones, without etc...?
SN
Bill,
Have you ever given any though to wall mounted TT stand like the ones made by Target? They woufl certainly eliminate the footfall problem.
Music Direct carries a whole bunch of them.
http://www.musicdirect.com/category/245
Tom
This is definitely the way to go, especially if you are lucky enough to have stone or brick or other "dead" wall. It eliminates the whole trial and error thing and frees up floor space. There's no need to get the expensive version if your wall is solid and vibration-free. There might still be some vibration transmitted to the wall if there are joists or beams running into it but that is really a minor issue.
Hi Guys
I actually have either a Target or Sound Organization wall mount TT rack stashed away somewhere. I used it when my system was in a different room in the house, but the way the new room sets up there really isn't a place to put it.
Bill
Another option is to hang a platform on chains and springs from the ceiling.
Bryan
Thanks, Bryan.
You either have a dedicated listening room all to yourself; otherwise be single or have a saint of a wife! If I tell my wife I'm suspending my LP12 from chains and springs from the ceiling of the family room, I don't think I have to tell you what part of my anatomy will be hanging there right along with it... do I? :shock: :(
What's "plan B" ???
SN
Hide it :lol:
I don't have it any more but used to - and in my living room (yes, she's a saint).
Seriously, if you had a cabinet with an open back, you could build struts that stick out from the wall through the back of the cabinet and hang the shelf on that.
Bryan
You need to get this guy to come over and rebalance the turntable, set the spring tension and dampening, level it all out and bless it with the Linn holy water. He charges by the hour and it takes about 3 hours to accomplish. Oh yeah, this only needs to be done once every 6 months and airfare and single malt are on you.
(http://www.pearlaudiovideo.com/Pearl_Audio_Video/Home/Entries/2009/5/9_Peachtree_Nova_Arrives!_files/scotsman.jpg)
Hey Bill sorry for the delay. OK, lets start. Linn has a Trampolin mod that did wonders for mine. However I believe you can do better for less. Your problem is loose floor etc. I would find and use the wall mounted unit. Isn't the wall behind your speakers the original masonry with sheetrock over ? If so your in. Use threaded SS rods into the masonry set in epoxy. If not drill into wood studs and place some visco elastic dampening between brass washers and the rack. The cones you are presently using to decouple the TT are not affective. You are using a hard to hard contact.
Buy some mapleshade Isoblocks [4] and place under a nice piece of Maple or Butherblock. Then buy a set of Micropoint heavy feet. Total cost under $200 [ call Sidney Goldberg ].
If you use the wall mounted unit then all you need are the Micropoint Heavy feet. I would change the composite shelf for a piece of Maple sometime down the road.
charles
Quote from: BobM on November 16, 2009, 11:22:35 AM
You need to get this guy to come over and rebalance the turntable, set the spring tension and dampening, level it all out and bless it with the Linn holy water. He charges by the hour and it takes about 3 hours to accomplish. Oh yeah, this only needs to be done once every 6 months and airfare and single malt are on you.
(http://www.pearlaudiovideo.com/Pearl_Audio_Video/Home/Entries/2009/5/9_Peachtree_Nova_Arrives!_files/scotsman.jpg)
](*,) :duh :rofl: Nah! a new belt every every couple of years and thats it. No need to climb the mod trail. I would say the Lingo power supply upgrade is the only one worth the money IMO. Made a huge difference for me. The other mods offer improvement however not worth the money in the bang for the buck department. The Keel sounds interesting but again the numbers are just greedy. Ivor needs new shoes and a Rolls. "F" him
Quote from: BobM on November 16, 2009, 11:22:35 AM
You need to get this guy to come over and rebalance the turntable, set the spring tension and dampening, level it all out and bless it with the Linn holy water. He charges by the hour and it takes about 3 hours to accomplish. Oh yeah, this only needs to be done once every 6 months and airfare and single malt are on you.
(http://www.pearlaudiovideo.com/Pearl_Audio_Video/Home/Entries/2009/5/9_Peachtree_Nova_Arrives!_files/scotsman.jpg)
"If its not Scottish, its craaaap"
Its funny if you say it in a Scottish accent :rofl:
Any recommendations for an inexpensive cartridge? I was just given a Linn Sondek LP12 w/ a Linn Basik LV V arm, but it has no cartridge/needle. I also still have my old, Shure SME 3009 series II improved non-detachable shell tonearm, that I could probably get/make an arm-board for and mount that up if it's a better arm.
Would this one (http://www.audionervosa.com/index.php?topic=2324.0) do the job?
Any help/guidance would be great.
Linns are strange animals and I have never known anyone who as had any real luck changing out a Linn arm. I would just leave it be unless you could get a better Linn arm. I have a friend with an LP 12 who has been using Grado cartridges with it for as long as I've known him (25+ years), although his is fitted with an Ittock, not a Basik arm (for whatever that's worth). IMO, that will be a real nice sounding rig just as it sits. Have fun. :thumb:
Barry if you want to try it, just PM me your addy. It's not in the same league as the Linn, but could be a decent backup for when you find your main squeeze pickup.
The Micro Benz line works very well with the LP12. I use a M2 wood body. Perfer it to my Arkiv actually.
charles
Thanks guys! I'm not a total n00b to vinyl, but it has been more than 2 decades since I've run a vinyl rig, so I'm a bit rusty. I ended up grabbing the Shure from Rich. I figure for $30, it'll get me back into the grove ;) I have an Audio Aalchemy VAC in the Box phono-stage, it has adjustments for both input impedance and gain via jumpers on the main board. They're not that difficult to get to, and I probably won't be changing them much once it's dialed in.
FWIW, when I was in high-school I'd built a plinth from 1" thick birch-ply, concrete, and foam layers. I mounted a Rek-O-Cut idler drive motor/platter, and the Shure SME arm with a Sonus Gold Blue Label cartridge. It was a pretty sweet set-up for a 16 year old back in 1980 ;) I used it through college, but it was to heavy to move around so it was dismantled when I came back east. Now all I have left of it is the SME arm.
Anyone know of any good Linn set-up tutorials available on the web?
Well since there were no responses to my query for set-up info. I hit google and found these.
Enjoy...
http://www.highendaudio.co.za/pdf_documents/HEA%20LP12%20Setup.pdf
http://www.audiocostruzioni.com/p_u/manuali/Lp12setup.doc
http://www.n.mackie.btinternet.co.uk/linn/tlp12faq.html
http://www.sondek-turntable.com/index.htm
http://www.sondek-turntable.com/sondek-turntable-2.htm
http://www.sondek-turntable.com/sondek-turntable-3.htm