Open baffle planars and servo subs

Started by HAL, March 12, 2016, 05:22:35 AM

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richidoo


HAL

Well had to get longer screws as the #4-3/8" did not have enough grip and some wood rip out.  Have the #4-1/2" hopefully coming today.  A tub of plastic wood for repairs and should be ready for finally installing the Neo10's in the first baffle.

richidoo

That stinks. But that's DIY... always learning.

HAL

The new screws worked.

The first complete Megalith baffle with the 8- BG Neo10 drives installed.  It is next to the 6x12 servo sub array.

Next is to build the second baffle and the stabilizing legs.

HAL

Second Megalith baffle getting ready for pilot hole drilling and Neo10 installation. 

HAL

The Megaliths baffles with the BG Neo10 planars are completed.

Now to wire the drivers to the amp modules for measurements.

richidoo

Nice Rich!!

Are you adding the green planars to these as tweeters, in that second empty row?

HAL

Rich,
No that is for 22 - BG Neo3-PDR's per side when they are available in July.   :D

HAL

The counterweight stabilizer for the baffle.

Copper pipe with end hammered shut and marked for bends. Bend pipe angle needed to attach at the top and bottom of the baffle. Add lead shot to add weight and then hammer the other end shut. Drill holes on 2" center to attach to the baffle bolts.

HAL

Got them bent.  Not pretty but will work.

Now to add the lead shot and close the other end.  Bend the ends and drill the mounting holes.

HAL

The right angle bend for the baffle attachment on the bottom of the stabilizer is finished.

Next will be cutting to length, adding weight and flattening and bending the other end to attach to the top of the baffle.

Last steps before wiring up the drivers to the amps.

HAL

Went to Lowes and purchased an adjustable pipe cutter. Marked the stabilizer length for keeping the baffle vertical and cut off the excess pipe. Very easy to do after seeing a plumber do it awhile back with that style tool. The pipes, shot and tools cost about $85, so less than $43/stabilizer. Could have used a 1"x2"x8' piece of oak, but I like this look better.

Next add the lead shot to the pipe, seal and flatten the other end for mounting hole drilling.

HAL

Added the lead shot to the stabilizers today and closed the opposite end.  The shot is now captive in the copper pipe.

Next is to bend the angles, drill the mounting holes and attach to the baffle.


HAL

Baffles completed and standing.

Next to wire up the Neo10 drivers and see how they measure.

richidoo

Wow! Congrats Rich. They live! Looks really nice.

I see some amps on the floor. One for each driver, right? Amps are LM3886 based?