Quicksilver MX-190 Owners

Started by Sir Cut Bored, June 30, 2022, 04:18:50 PM

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Sir Cut Bored

New to the forum. . . and hoping to find someone who currently owns a Quicksilver MX-190. I'm working on with a missing original power switch. This was a three position OFF ON ON rocker, which are currently extremely hard to find. My hope is that a current MX-190 owner would be willing to unscrew their front panel and tell me who the original manufacturer of the switch was. A bonus would be a photo of the wiring to the switch. Thanks.

Nick B

Welcome to the forum!  :thumb: I was on the quicksilver website and your amp was manufactured between 1981–1985. So I can see why parts availability might be an issue. We have a couple of guys here who may have knowledge of where to source that switch or an appropriate replacement. I've never dealt with Mike Sanders, but maybe you could send him an email as you have one of his vintage amps.

Nick
Orchard Starkrimson Ultra amp
Hattor Big preamp
JMR Voce Grande speakers
Holo Cyan2 dac
Holo Red streamer
Spiritual Sound loom
TWL Digital American II p cords
Custom power cords
JPLAY, HQ Player, Tidal, Qobuz
PI Audio UberBUSS

P.I.

Carling makes a DP3T ON/ON/ON switch that may work for you.  It depens upon the configuration.  With these typ of switches leaving one position un wired would give you a OFF/ON/ON switch. 

I assume the first ON position was for filaments, is that correct?

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Carling-Technologies/TIGE51-6S-BL-NBL?qs=2TMTlEbebpKUffoydyDC9A%3D%3D
"A man with an experience is never at the mercy of a man with an argument." - Hilmar von Campe

Sir Cut Bored

Quote from: Nick B on June 30, 2022, 04:36:15 PM
Welcome to the forum!  :thumb: I was on the quicksilver website and your amp was manufactured between 1981–1985. So I can see why parts availability might be an issue. We have a couple of guys here who may have knowledge of where to source that switch or an appropriate replacement. I've never dealt with Mike Sanders, but maybe you could send him an email as you have one of his vintage amps.

Nick

Thanks for the welcome Nick. I should have mentioned that I've corresponded with Mike Sanders and, unfortunately, he doesn't recall the manufacturer of the switch.

Quote from: P.I. on June 30, 2022, 04:53:39 PM
Carling makes a DP3T ON/ON/ON switch that may work for you.  It depens upon the configuration.  With these typ of switches leaving one position un wired would give you a OFF/ON/ON switch. 

I assume the first ON position was for filaments, is that correct?

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Carling-Technologies/TIGE51-6S-BL-NBL?qs=2TMTlEbebpKUffoydyDC9A%3D%3D

Correct, the first on position is for the filaments, and the second position is for the B+. Hadn't considered an ON/ON/ON, but that sounds like a possibility. The specific Carling model you linked to is too large for the existing panel cutout, and I'm not quite at the point of cutting into/modifying the original aluminum faceplate (though it may come to that). The cutout is 17mm x 31mm rectangular.

P.I.

Quote from: Sir Cut Bored on June 30, 2022, 05:15:11 PM

Quote from: P.I. on June 30, 2022, 04:53:39 PM
Carling makes a DP3T ON/ON/ON switch that may work for you.  It depens upon the configuration.  With these typ of switches leaving one position un wired would give you a OFF/ON/ON switch. 

I assume the first ON position was for filaments, is that correct?

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Carling-Technologies/TIGE51-6S-BL-NBL?qs=2TMTlEbebpKUffoydyDC9A%3D%3D

Correct, the first on position is for the filaments, and the second position is for the B+. Hadn't considered an ON/ON/ON, but that sounds like a possibility. The specific Carling model you linked to is too large for the existing panel cutout, and I'm not quite at the point of cutting into/modifying the original aluminum faceplate (though it may come to that). The cutout is 17mm x 31mm rectangular.
Rebuilding/repairing older gear can be a challenge.  Sometimes a guy's gotta do what a guy's gotta do.  A good, sharp file, 10 minutes (after masking or removing the faceplate) and careful, patient work and it "may" work for you.

Whatever you choose to do, good luck!  :thumb:
"A man with an experience is never at the mercy of a man with an argument." - Hilmar von Campe

Nick B

Quote from: Sir Cut Bored on June 30, 2022, 05:15:11 PM
Quote from: Nick B on June 30, 2022, 04:36:15 PM
Welcome to the forum!  :thumb: I was on the quicksilver website and your amp was manufactured between 1981–1985. So I can see why parts availability might be an issue. We have a couple of guys here who may have knowledge of where to source that switch or an appropriate replacement. I've never dealt with Mike Sanders, but maybe you could send him an email as you have one of his vintage amps.

Nick

Thanks for the welcome Nick. I should have mentioned that I've corresponded with Mike Sanders and, unfortunately, he doesn't recall the manufacturer of the switch.

Quote from: P.I. on June 30, 2022, 04:53:39 PM
Carling makes a DP3T ON/ON/ON switch that may work for you.  It depens upon the configuration.  With these typ of switches leaving one position un wired would give you a OFF/ON/ON switch. 

I assume the first ON position was for filaments, is that correct?

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Carling-Technologies/TIGE51-6S-BL-NBL?qs=2TMTlEbebpKUffoydyDC9A%3D%3D

Correct, the first on position is for the filaments, and the second position is for the B+. Hadn't considered an ON/ON/ON, but that sounds like a possibility. The specific Carling model you linked to is too large for the existing panel cutout, and I'm not quite at the point of cutting into/modifying the original aluminum faceplate (though it may come to that). The cutout is 17mm x 31mm rectangular.

Pls keep us posted if you can get this to work. Modifying a chassis can be a bit challenging.
Orchard Starkrimson Ultra amp
Hattor Big preamp
JMR Voce Grande speakers
Holo Cyan2 dac
Holo Red streamer
Spiritual Sound loom
TWL Digital American II p cords
Custom power cords
JPLAY, HQ Player, Tidal, Qobuz
PI Audio UberBUSS

P.I.

Quote from: Sir Cut Bored on June 30, 2022, 05:15:11 PM
Quote from: Nick B on June 30, 2022, 04:36:15 PM
Welcome to the forum!  :thumb: I was on the quicksilver website and your amp was manufactured between 1981–1985. So I can see why parts availability might be an issue. We have a couple of guys here who may have knowledge of where to source that switch or an appropriate replacement. I've never dealt with Mike Sanders, but maybe you could send him an email as you have one of his vintage amps.

Nick

Thanks for the welcome Nick. I should have mentioned that I've corresponded with Mike Sanders and, unfortunately, he doesn't recall the manufacturer of the switch.

Quote from: P.I. on June 30, 2022, 04:53:39 PM
Carling makes a DP3T ON/ON/ON switch that may work for you.  It depens upon the configuration.  With these typ of switches leaving one position un wired would give you a OFF/ON/ON switch. 

I assume the first ON position was for filaments, is that correct?

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Carling-Technologies/TIGE51-6S-BL-NBL?qs=2TMTlEbebpKUffoydyDC9A%3D%3D

Correct, the first on position is for the filaments, and the second position is for the B+. Hadn't considered an ON/ON/ON, but that sounds like a possibility. The specific Carling model you linked to is too large for the existing panel cutout, and I'm not quite at the point of cutting into/modifying the original aluminum faceplate (though it may come to that). The cutout is 17mm x 31mm rectangular.
CCB...

Have you been able to make any headway on this problem?
"A man with an experience is never at the mercy of a man with an argument." - Hilmar von Campe